The stroke of midnight on
the third Thursday of each November sends corks popping with celebrations
around the globe toasting the latest release of France’s Beaujolais Nouveau
wine. It’s longtime end-of-harvest tradition, but too often, these
rushed-to-bottle reds leave something to be desired. Which is where wines like
today’s Drink of the Week—the 2010 Beaujolais l’Ancien from Jean-Paul Brun—come
in. It’s also made in France’s
Beaujolais region and with the same Gamay grape, but there’s nothing nouveau
about this bottle. One of a growing number of vintners redefining the wines of
the region, this estate organically produces this elegant, easy drinker for
high-acid fruit flavors of tart cherries, an underlying layer of earthy
mushroom and chalky minerality on the finish. It’s delicate, fresh and
delicious. And for more Beaujolais we love, check out “Go, Go Gamay!” in our September/October 2012 issue. $17, astorwines.com